Bodies of Air France captain, steward found




(CNN) -- Search crews have recovered the bodies of the flight captain and a steward from the Air France flight that crashed off the coast of Brazil.
A Brazilian diver floats on wreckage of Flight 447 earlier this month. The search for more debris continues.

The two flight members are among the victims that have been identified, Air France said in a statement Thursday.
About a dozen victims have been identified among roughly 50 bodies recovered from the crash of Flight 447, which killed 228 peopl

e on June 1, authorities in Brazil said this week.
Crews continue to search for bodies, wreckage and flight-data recorders that apparently rest deep on the ocean floor. Data from the recorders may be crucial in helping investigators determine what caused the plane to crash. Watch more wreckage recovered from crash »
Autopsies conducted on some of the 50 bodies found so far show they suffered broken bones, including arms, legs and hips, Brazilian authorities have told French investigators, according to Paul-Louis Arslanian, head of the French accident investigation board.
Such injuries suggest that the plane broke apart in midair, experts have said.
Asked about that theory, Air France Chief Executive Pierre-Henri Gourgeon told France's RTL radio this week that he would not go that far.
"What I know is that the investigators would like to know the causes of death," Gourgeon said. "That knowledge of causes of death will better clarify what exactly happened. Were the victims killed before the impact, or during impact?"
Searchers have found dozens of pieces of debris in the water and think they know the general location of the wreck, but Arslanian said this week that there is a chance the entire aircraft may never be found.


Air France plans to pay relatives of the victims an initial compensation equivalent to about $24,500, or 17,500 euros, for each victim, Gourgeon has said.
The airliner said this week that it has been in touch with about 1,800 relatives of the people who died when the Airbus A330 crashed, but that it has been difficult tracing the relatives of all 228 victims.
"The modern world is different and we often have only a cell phone, and as you can imagine, this cell phone is unfortunately in the aircraft," Gourgeon said. "So we probably (will put in) more hours to access all the relatives."
The company is also providing families with counseling, he said.
The were 32 different nationalities present on Flight 447.

Hostels: The cure for expensive, lonely travel



(Tribune Media Services) -- If you want to save money while traveling, consider hosteling. Several thousand hostels provide beds throughout Europe -- in cities, towns, and the countryside -- for $20 to $40 per night.

Some hostels are really travel destinations, such as the Mountain Hostel in Gimmelwald, Switzerland.


For this rock-bottom price, you get "no frills" accommodations in clean, stark dormitories. The good news for couples and families is that many hostels have a few doubles and some family rooms (book ahead for these). It's a great way to enjoy some privacy while saving money.
You may assume hostels aren't for you because, by every standard, you're "old." Well, many countries have dropped the word "youth" from their hostel organization's name, and for years Hostelling International has given "youths" over the age of 54 a discount on membership cards. Even the last holdout, the German state of Bavaria, finally dropped its youths-only restriction. If you're alive, you're young enough to hostel anywhere in Europe.
A reader wrote on my Web site: "My partner and I stayed in a 'youth' hostel for the first time by Lake Como and thought we'd be the oldest people there. Not so! At our table was a 60-ish couple from Sydney and a 79-year-old British woman who was backpacking alone through Europe. All three were a delight, but especially the backpacker, who said she stays in hostels for the evening company."
Solo travelers find a family in every hostel, and can always find a new travel partner. The hostel's recreation and living rooms are my favorite hangouts. People gather, play games, tell stories, share information, read, write, and team up for future travels. The lights may go out by 11 p.m., but bunk-bed conversation rages long after. You'll find yourself propped on your elbows staring intensely into the darkness, passing around travel tales like a bucket of popcorn.
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Some hostels serve hearty, super-cheap meals, often in family-style settings. A typical dinner is fish sticks and mashed potatoes seasoned by conversation with new friends from Norway to Namibia to New Zealand. The self-service kitchen, complete with utensils, pots, and pans, is a great budget aid that comes with most hostels. Larger hostels even have a small grocery store. International friendships rise with the bread in the kitchens.
Still, hostels are not hotels -- not by a long shot. Many people hate them. Hostels can have strict rules. Some lock up during the day (usually from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.), and a few may have a curfew at night, when the doors are locked.
Unless you snare a double or family room, you could have lots of company. Dorms have from four to 20 beds. At official hostels, which require a membership card (see www.hiusa.org), the sexes are segregated. Many independent hostels have both segregated and mixed dorms (no membership card required).
School groups can turn hostels upside down, typically on weekends during the school year and weekdays in the summer. The sounds you'll hear just after everyone's turned in remind me of summer camp -- giggles, burps, jokes, and strange noises in many languages. Snoring is permitted and practiced openly.
Theft can be a problem in a few hostels, but try this simple safeguard: Wear your money belt (even while sleeping) and don't leave valuables lying around (but no one's going to steal your tennis shoes or journal). Use the storage lockers that are available in most facilities. (Other typical hostel services include Internet access and a self-service laundry.)
Hostels come in all shapes and sizes, and some are sightseeing destinations in themselves. There are castles (Bacharach, Germany), moored ships (Stockholm), alpine chalets (Gimmelwald, Switzerland), huge modern buildings (Frankfurt), lakefront villas (Lugano, Italy), former prisons (Ljubljana, Slovenia), medieval manor houses (Wilderhope Manor, England), former choirboys' dorms (St. Paul's, London), country estates (Loch Lomond, Scotland), and former royal residences (Holland Park, London).
I've hosteled most in Northern Europe, where hostels are more comfortable and the savings over hotels more exciting (particularly in Scandinavia, where you find lots of Volvos in hostel parking lots, as Scandinavians know that hostels provide the best -- and usually only -- $30 beds in town). I rarely hostel in the south, where hostels are less common, and two or three people can sleep just as cheaply in a budget hotel.
Young backpackers can overrun big-city hostels. Rural hostels, far from train lines and famous sights, are usually quiet and frequented by a more mature crowd. If you have a car, use that mobility to leave the Eurail zone and enjoy some of Europe's overlooked hostels.
Some travelers love them and will be hostelers all their lives, regardless of their budgets. Hosteling is a philosophy. You trade service and privacy for a chance to live simply and communally with people from around the world.

For you !

Zuni Cafe Cookbook


Written by Judy Rodgers with wine suggestions from Gerald Asher. 504 pages of recipes for the earthy, sensual food for which Zuni is known. Twenty-four color and fifty black-and-white photographs. James Beard Awards - Outstanding Chef Award, Cookbook of The Year, Cookbook Outstanding Restaurant Award. IACP Award - Chefs and Restaurants Category Accolades"It is rare to find a cookbook that is a joy to read as well as one having a great collection of recipes. Judy Rodgers explains in detail the art of tasting and seasoning, even the art of shopping and what to look for." Chuck Williams "This is a cookbook that belongs in every kitchen. It is instructive for beginners and equally valuable for cooking 'pros.' Judy carefully and simply explains the why and how of every step." Marion Cunningham "Recipes are straightforward and traditional, each one is unique." Alice Waters

Why we like it
This book is everything is says above and more. If stranded on a desert island and able to have only 5 cookbooks, this would be first on the list!

Athens: A new look for an old city



(Tribune Media Services) -- A century and a half ago, Athens was a humble, forgotten city of about 8,000 people. Today, one out of every three Greeks packs into this city of about 4 million.

To avoid the Parthenon crowds, go in the early evening when the marble turns golden as the sun sets.

Athens has been famous for its sprawl, noise and pollution. My advice has long been to see the big sights, then get out. But visiting it recently to research a new guidebook, I've seen a dramatic change. The city has made a concerted effort to curb pollution, clean up and pedestrianize the streets, spiff up the museums, build a new airport and invest in one of Europe's better public-transit systems.
Even with its new look, the Greek capital still has its "big three" sights: the stunning Acropolis, the Ancient Agora just below and the remarkable National Archaeological Museum. But coming in June is the opening of a fourth big sight -- one that will stoke a battle over Greece losing her marbles more than 200 years ago (more on that later).
To many, the most important ancient site in the Western world is the Acropolis, rising gleaming like a beacon above the gray concrete drudgery of modern Athens. This is where the Greeks built the mighty Parthenon -- the most famous temple on the planet, and an enduring symbol of ancient Athens' glorious Golden Age from nearly 2,500 years ago.
The major monuments of the Acropolis survive in remarkably good condition. While the Persians, Ottomans, and British were cruel to the site in the past, the greatest dangers it faces now are acid rain and pollution. Ongoing restoration means that you might see some scaffolding -- but even that can't take away from its greatness. I like to come late in the day, as the sun goes down, when the white Parthenon stone gleams a creamy golden brown.
While the Acropolis was the city's ceremonial showpiece, it was the Ancient Agora that was the real heart of classical Athens. For some 800 years, it was the hub of all commercial, political, and social life and home to many of the city's religious rites.
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Little survives in the Agora from the classical period. Other than one very well-preserved temple and a rebuilt portico, it's a field of humble ruins nestled in the shadow of the Acropolis. But that makes it a quiet, uncrowded spot to wander and get a feel for the ancients. Romantics can't help but get goose bumps as they kick around the same pebbles that once stuck in Socrates' sandals, with the floodlit Parthenon forever floating ethereally overhead.
North of the city center is the world's best collection of ancient Greek art, the National Archaeological Museum. It takes you from 7000 B.C. to A.D. 500 on a beautifully displayed and well-described sweep through Greek history, from prehistoric and Mycenaean artifacts through the evolution of classical Greek statuary.
This museum now has a worthy competitor -- the New Acropolis Museum, slated to open in June. It's a world-class space, custom-built to showcase the Parthenon sculptures, along with truckloads of other artifacts, all complemented by modern exhibits. And the state-of-the-art building itself is worth a look, as the boldest symbol yet of the post-Olympics vision for Athens.
The new museum also serves as a sort of 21st-century Trojan horse, intended to lure the famous Elgin Marbles (the Parthenon sculptures) away from London's British Museum. In the early 19th century, the British ambassador to the Ottomans, Lord Elgin, got permission to strip marble panels from the Parthenon and take them to England.
For years, the Greeks have asked for the marbles back, and for years, the Brits have responded with claims that Greece can't give them a suitable home. And yet, now that this state-of-the-art facility is ready and waiting, it still seems unlikely that the marbles will be returned anytime soon.
Britain is reluctant to give in, for fear of setting a precedent ... and getting "me, too" notices from Italy, Egypt, Iran, Iraq and all the other nations who'd like the missing pieces of their cultural heritage back. But even without the Elgin Marbles, this new museum will be worth the wait, capturing the timeless splendor of ancient Athens in an ultra-modern building.
Athens is more than a showcase for its past. Take some time to smell the souvlaki, whether by wandering through the touristy Plaka district, browsing through the Monastiraki flea market, or exploring the Psyrri neighborhood, the cutting-edge place to go for nightlife and dining. The narrow winding streets can be confusing, but you can't get too lost with a monument the size of the Acropolis looming overhead to keep you oriented.
And after you visit Athens, get out -- to the wild, mountainous landscape of Greece's Peloponnese, covered in my next column.

Cut costs and make memories in Europe




(Tribune Media Services) -- Given the economy, the number one question I've gotten lately from people is whether to go to Europe. It's true that many people will put off their trips for another time. But millions of globetrotters -- who see exploring our world as a way of life -- will find a way to keep on traveling.
General admission to many of London's museums is free. Some special exhibitions require paid entrance.

Let's be honest. Europe is expensive. Prices are high for locals -- and for Americans. Yet regardless of the soaring cost of living, Europeans remain experts at living well. Even those who don't have much money manage plenty of "la dolce vita." And savvy travelers can join them on the cheap.
The best travelers are not those with the thickest wallets, but those with a knack for connecting with locals and their culture.
Match your hobbies with a local in Helsinki's "Meet the Finns" program -- and suddenly, you're searching out classic comics at the flea market with a new local friend.
If you're wandering through Spain's Santiago de Compostela and you hear music and dancers in a gym, pop in and observe. As you enjoy the Galician folk club practicing their traditional dance, you realize northwest Spain is actually Celtic -- where flamenco meets "Riverdance."
Even in London -- Europe's priciest city -- you can have a world-class experience for next to nothing. In Italy, to see Michelangelo's "Last Judgment," Leonardo's "Last Supper" and Botticelli's "Birth of Venus," it will cost you about $50; but in London, seeing the Tate Gallery, British Museum, and National Gallery won't cost you a pence. And when the seats at London's Royal Albert Hall are sold out, standing-room spots are often available.
Budget travelers need to know their money-saving options, and take advantage of them: Ride the shuttle rather than the taxi in from the airport (saves $40 in Vienna). Order a carafe of house wine instead of a bottle of fine wine (saves $20 in Rome). Choose a two-star hotel rather than a three-star one (saves $60 per night in Paris). Buy the transit pass rather than individual tickets (saves $5 per ride on London's Tube). Buy a scratch-off phone card at a European newsstand for calls home, and you'll pay pennies rather than dollars per minute.
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When you travel, time really is money. (Divide the complete cost of your trip by your waking hours in Europe, and you'll see what I mean. My cost: $15 per hour.) Don't waste your valuable time in lines. I queue as little as possible. In Europe's most crowded cities (especially Paris, Rome, and Florence), easy-to-make reservations and museum passes -- which pay for themselves in four visits -- let you skirt the long ticket-buying lines.
If it costs $1 to use your cell phone to confirm museum times, but it saves you trekking across town to discover the sight is closed, that's a buck very well spent. And sometimes, calculated "splurges" save both time and money: A taxi ride split by four people can cost less than four bus tickets.
When choosing a restaurant, look for small "mom and pop" places filled with enthusiastic local eaters. If a short, handwritten menu in one language is posted out front, that's a good sign. Daily specials and early-bird dinners let you dine well for under $25 anywhere in Europe.
Eastern Europe is both a fine value and a new frontier for many travelers. While hotels are nearly as expensive as in the West, other items are a relative steal. A mug of Czech beer -- the best in Europe -- costs $2 (versus $6 in Britain or Ireland, or $8 in Oslo). A ticket for Mozart in a sumptuous Budapest opera house runs $20 (versus $60 in Vienna).
Your biggest budget challenges are accommodations: Hotels are pricey just about everywhere in Europe. But, equipped with good information, you can land some fine deals -- which often come with the most memories, to boot. If you're willing to "rough it," consider the Norwegian YWCA in London, a renovated jail in Luzern, or a summer-only circus tent in Munich.
Be open to new experiences. Join the Scotsman who runs your B&B in a game of lawn bowling, the Frenchman who runs your pension in a game of "pétanque" or the Greek who runs your hotel for a game of backgammon.
When I reread my past trip journals, I'm always impressed by how often the best experiences were free. Even more important than saving you money, these tips bring you rich experiences that become indelible memories ... the kind of souvenirs you'll enjoy for a lifetime.